From left:

Dress (bodice and skirt), early 1860s

American

Silk taffeta and fringe, cotton undersleeves and cotton lace collar

Gift of Sarah Robbins and Dottie Brown, 1990.c.38.A–B

Dress, 1865

American

Silk taffeta with cotton lace collar

Gift of Mrs. Louise Laflin, 1976.c.99

These American copies of French fashions are evidence of how rapidly information about current styles was disseminated in the nineteenth century. Readers across America were informed of current fashions in Godey's Lady's Book and other subscription magazines, which featured hand-colored plates in their monthly editions, along with lengthy descriptions of fabrics and accessories. Developments in pattern systems and the widespread availability of the sewing machine meant that even women of limited means in isolated places had the ability to follow fashion to some degree. Technology had brought a new element to the way clothing could be made and accessed.

The balloon like cotton undersleeves and light-colored silk of the dress on the left would have assured its use as warm-weather clothing. The removable undersleeves and lace collar allowed for frequent cleaning in those easily soiled areas, the dresses themselves would have been only spot-cleaned. The closely cut sleeve and dark brown color of the other dress (at right) indicate that it would have been worn in the fall and winter, while its one-piece construction and reference to earlier tiered-skirt designs suggest that it was intended for a married or matronly wearer. 

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