Clair McCardell American, 1905-1958
Raincoat, 1955
Worsted wool
Gift of Mrs. Philip Hack1979.c.339
"My favorite raincoat is black, some kind of waterproofed wool that feels comfortable in raw weather . . . . But warmer rainy weather may not seem to go with somber colors. In my resort collections I often make raincoats really bright. Roman stripes, for instance--wide brilliant ones. . ."
-Claire McCardell, What Shall I Wear?, 1956
Upon her return to Townley Frocks under new owner, Adolph Klein, McCardell was given complete freedom in her design. McCardell who "always designed things I needed myself" moved beyond the typical afternoon tea dresses and golf skirts Townley Frocks had previously manufactured to include evening wear, tennis skirts, day wear, play clothes, ski clothes, and bathing suits among others. Most manufacturers at the time offered a specialized range of items; Townley's diverse selection was convenient for store buyers, and the company's business tripled in the first three years after McCardell had exclusive design control.
The cut of this warm weather raincoat was inspired by the academic's gown. McCardell encouraged women to collect several coats and not just rely on "one good one."
Click photo to go to next item